H and I had been toying with going to Oslo or Helsinki for this year’s chilly break but decided to plump for Copenhagen instead which we’d visited twice before in February and enjoyed. A lucky choice as temperatures sank to -10 C in Helsinki last week.
I had my eye on the Design Museum for Tuesday’s outing. Danish design is, of course, renowned but what struck
me about the museum was the attention paid to process. The first room was devoted to the construction of three different chairs of which my favourite was derived from compressed hemp and extremely comfortable. Lots to explore after that including several exhibits showcasing designers such as Arne Jacobsen. Some beautiful pieces on display, including a striking table lamp by Poul Henningsen, many suiting their function perfectly as good design should although not the pop art furniture which made
my back wince. We walked back to our hotel in the late afternoon gloom past the Russian Orthodox church whose golden onion domes lit up the sky.
With a snowstorm looming later in the week, we decided to go to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art on
Wednesday, a thirty-minute train ride through Copenhagen’s posh suburbs. Comprised of two purpose-built wings stretching out either side of a nineteenth-century villa in Humlebaek, it opened in 1958 and is home to an extensive collection my favourite of which are the Giacomettis. Thanks to a makeover since our last visit, the wonderful Walking Man, with his purposeful stride, is set in a light filled space against a backdrop of the gallery’s sculpture park. We ventured outside after lunch admiring work from Henry Moore and Max Ernst while listening to the happy shrieks of children tobogganing in their snowsuits, enjoying half term.
Thursday was National Museum of Denmark day, three floors of Danish history, whose Arctic section was particularly fascinating. Some of the clothing on display is surprisingly similar to our own: anorak is Greenlandic and parka comes from the Siberian Nenets whose shaman costume is a resplendent example. Rane Willerslev, the museum’s current director, has a particular interest in tribal cultures having spent time living amongst indigenous Siberians enduring shudderingly low temperatures. His video descriptions of their
spiritual and hunting practices were my favourite bit of the museum, although the archaeology section with its perfectly preserved exhibits discovered in Denmark’s peat bogs, including an exquisite bowl dating back to around 3,100 BC, came a close second. An impressive museum whose lack of gimmicky presentation certainly didn’t deter lots of children from enjoying themselves. By the time we left it was snowing enough to head back to our hotel.
We decided to spend our last day at SMK, the Danish national gallery, gingerly negotiating the icy path to its
grand entrance. Our first stop was an exhibition of textiles by Anna Thommesen, a weaver who produced her own plant dyes for many years. She worked in wool, which we seem to have turned against in the UK, giving her pieces a pleasing depth and texture. Although the extensive permanent collection includes works from other European countries it was the Nordic artists that most interested me. My favourite was the pared-back painting of nineteenth-century artist Vilhelm Hammershøi, full of beautiful northern light, whose work I’d not come across before.
A mid-day flight on Saturday meant we were home by Mischief’s feeding time. An enjoyable break, nowhere near as active as last February’s Stockholm holiday but we did stock up on culture. It looks like another wet week in store reminding me of Laurits Andersen Ring‘s Is it Still Raining? which struck a chord when I spotted it in SMK.
And the book? Despite spending more time indoors than usual nothing really stuck until I started Stewart O’Nan’s Wish You Were Here, the first in his Emily Maxwell series which sees the family gathered for the last time to clear their summer home, now sold after the death of Emily’s husband, Henry, each member bringing their problems, expectations and memories with them. I’d enjoyed the prequel, Henry, Himself, a few years ago so felt on safe ground with this one.
I haven’t been to Copenhagen for forty years now. This post suggests it’s more than time to revisit, especially as our last visit was focussed on delights for small children. Well, we enjoyed Tivoli too. A funfair like no other. And I’m not a funfair fan usually.
The most memorable bit was when they stopped the big wheel becuase of a freak thunder-and-lightning storm, with my children, then aged 5 and 3 in a compartment – BY THEMSELVES – at the very top. They were fine. We were in pieces at the bottom.
Well, you have to build Norway into one of your European trips and might as well visit Sweden, Denmark and Finland while you’re there! I was so impressed by the design museum – much better than London’s.
We have a book club friend who regularly commutes to Helsinki for weeks at a time. I’ll have to ask if he’s been over recently in that cold. I’m impressed that the design museum let you sit in the chair, and I’m curious about how the Louisiana museum got its name. I guess it’s good that you planned lots of indoor activities in the winter, but you and I are very different tourists — I would have been museum-ed out after an hour in one! Did you do any good eating? “Is it Still Raining?” is apt indeed, but we have made the most of a few brief spells of sunshine. I would have done better to start there with O’Nan rather than his most recent novel.
I imagine your friend has been staying in at night if last week is anything to go by! We’re both museum hounds and pick winter destinations that have lots of them in case the weather’s not conducive to outdoor exploration. Apparantly, the original owner of the Louisiana estate had three wives, all of them called Louise which I find a little odd but perhaps it was just coincidence.
I was relieved to finally hit on a book that worked.
I have been to Copenhagen once. In October. Even then it was getting really cold. My cousin has lived there for twenty years so I had a chaperone to show me around. It’s a beautiful city. Helsinki is also beautiful. Expensive though. But Scandinavia is on the pricey side. Although I went to Dublin last week for two days to visit some exhibitions and see The Crucible and the prices there are on a par with Scandinavia.
Last year, Stockholm prices seemed slightly higher than London’s but Copenhagen was more expensive than that. Lovely to be shown around by someone who knows the city. I do want to go back to Helsinki but not at those temperatures!
Sounds great! I’m going to Denmark for the first time in a month, but to Aarhus rather than Copenhagen (academic conference). Am also toying with the idea of visiting Stockholm later in the year, having already been to Helsinki and Oslo.
Our winter visit to Stockholm was very different from the summer one which was in the middle of a heatwave. It’s a lovely city, easy to explore. I’d like to see Helsinki in winter, too. Have fun in Aarhus!
My Copenhagen experience seemed to involve lots of walking and lots of climbing up towers. I seem to remember being overheated rather than chilled. I didn’t make it as far as Louisiana, but I did visit the most amazing 20th century church that’s like a modern version of a perpendicular cathedral, like organ pipes built in brick (Grundtvig’s church). https://www.visitdenmark.nl/denemarken/reis-plannen/grundtvigs-church-gdk410661
I also walked around the national library and inhaled the smell of their old card catalogue.
As for Stewart O’Nan’s last book, Evensong, which must be part of the same series, I obviously enjoyed it more than Rebecca.
What an amazing church! A reason to go back, for sure. We did lots of walking on our previous two visits but icy pavements were a bit off-putting this time. Perhaps I should visit in the summer. Highly recommend Louisiana if you ever go back.
I enjoyed the O’Nan. I think I was lucky to have read the prequel first so had Henry in my head. Looking forward to Evensong.
I would have the perfect wardrobe for -10! (It probably wouldn’t lend itself to sitting in lovely and fashionable chairs however. heheh) Thaniks for taking “us” travelling with you again. Such a lovely journey!
I haven’t been to Copenhagen for forty years now. This post suggests it’s more than time to revisit, especially as our last visit was focussed on delights for small children. Well, we enjoyed Tivoli too. A funfair like no other. And I’m not a funfair fan usually.
I’ve walked past Tivoli but never visited. It must have been a big hit with your children.
The most memorable bit was when they stopped the big wheel becuase of a freak thunder-and-lightning storm, with my children, then aged 5 and 3 in a compartment – BY THEMSELVES – at the very top. They were fine. We were in pieces at the bottom.
Blimey!
I’ve not been to Scandinavia, but would love to go. Sounds a great week of culture for you.
I can recommend Sweden, Denmark and Finland, all of which I’ve visited several times although only Helsinki in Finland. I’m sure you’d enjoy it.
I would LOVE to visit Scandinavia (my great-grandmother was Norwegian so I really out to get there). The design museum sounds excellent.
Well, you have to build Norway into one of your European trips and might as well visit Sweden, Denmark and Finland while you’re there! I was so impressed by the design museum – much better than London’s.
I could definitely find a place for that table lamp!
It’s a beauty, isn’t it.
I’ve always wanted to go to Copenhagen. Looks wonderful, particularly all the art.
I think you’d love Louisiana, Cathy. This was my third visit – one of the best galleries I’ve visited.
I need to go back, I didn’t get to the National Gallery and obviously need to go!
It’s well worth a revisit. If you didn’t make it out to Louisiana, I’d recommend it.
Sounds like a great visit – thanks for sharing, and love the Giacometti pic!
Your’re welcome. Isn’t it wonderful? I love that striding off into the wide blue yonder. Somehow it feels hopeful.
We have a book club friend who regularly commutes to Helsinki for weeks at a time. I’ll have to ask if he’s been over recently in that cold. I’m impressed that the design museum let you sit in the chair, and I’m curious about how the Louisiana museum got its name. I guess it’s good that you planned lots of indoor activities in the winter, but you and I are very different tourists — I would have been museum-ed out after an hour in one! Did you do any good eating? “Is it Still Raining?” is apt indeed, but we have made the most of a few brief spells of sunshine. I would have done better to start there with O’Nan rather than his most recent novel.
I imagine your friend has been staying in at night if last week is anything to go by! We’re both museum hounds and pick winter destinations that have lots of them in case the weather’s not conducive to outdoor exploration. Apparantly, the original owner of the Louisiana estate had three wives, all of them called Louise which I find a little odd but perhaps it was just coincidence.
I was relieved to finally hit on a book that worked.
I have been to Copenhagen once. In October. Even then it was getting really cold. My cousin has lived there for twenty years so I had a chaperone to show me around. It’s a beautiful city. Helsinki is also beautiful. Expensive though. But Scandinavia is on the pricey side. Although I went to Dublin last week for two days to visit some exhibitions and see The Crucible and the prices there are on a par with Scandinavia.
Last year, Stockholm prices seemed slightly higher than London’s but Copenhagen was more expensive than that. Lovely to be shown around by someone who knows the city. I do want to go back to Helsinki but not at those temperatures!
Wonderful! And well done on avoiding -10, brrr!
Thank you. Pure luck!
Sounds great! I’m going to Denmark for the first time in a month, but to Aarhus rather than Copenhagen (academic conference). Am also toying with the idea of visiting Stockholm later in the year, having already been to Helsinki and Oslo.
Our winter visit to Stockholm was very different from the summer one which was in the middle of a heatwave. It’s a lovely city, easy to explore. I’d like to see Helsinki in winter, too. Have fun in Aarhus!
My Copenhagen experience seemed to involve lots of walking and lots of climbing up towers. I seem to remember being overheated rather than chilled. I didn’t make it as far as Louisiana, but I did visit the most amazing 20th century church that’s like a modern version of a perpendicular cathedral, like organ pipes built in brick (Grundtvig’s church). https://www.visitdenmark.nl/denemarken/reis-plannen/grundtvigs-church-gdk410661
I also walked around the national library and inhaled the smell of their old card catalogue.
As for Stewart O’Nan’s last book, Evensong, which must be part of the same series, I obviously enjoyed it more than Rebecca.
What an amazing church! A reason to go back, for sure. We did lots of walking on our previous two visits but icy pavements were a bit off-putting this time. Perhaps I should visit in the summer. Highly recommend Louisiana if you ever go back.
I enjoyed the O’Nan. I think I was lucky to have read the prequel first so had Henry in my head. Looking forward to Evensong.
I would have the perfect wardrobe for -10! (It probably wouldn’t lend itself to sitting in lovely and fashionable chairs however. heheh) Thaniks for taking “us” travelling with you again. Such a lovely journey!
You’re welcome! I’m pretty well set up for below zero temperatures, although not that far below.