Our main reason for visiting St Leonards-on-Sea was to see family who had recently downsized and moved into a rather lovely apartment there. It was my first visit to this grand Victorian seaside town full of imposing villas, many rundown enough to make them affordable for buyers wanting to move out of their shoebox London apartments. We arrived in glorious sunshine on Wednesday afternoon after a very pretty train ride through Kent.
After a morning spent chewing the fat with M and R the following day, we took ourselves off to Hastings Contemporary who were staging an impressive exhibition of Leon Kossoff and Chaïm Soutine‘s work. Both shared a predilection for painting in oils so thick the resulting pieces are almost sculptural. Of the two, I was most impressed by 
Kossoff’s work in this style, best appreciated by standing back after a close appreciation of his many-layered technique. My favourite was the somewhat disconcerting ‘Head of Seedo’ although the very different ‘Children’s Swimming Pool, Autumn Afternoon’ came a close second. In contrast to his landscapes, Soutine’s portraits were quite delicate showing the influence of his close friend Modigliani, a portrait of whom is included in the exhibition.
Friday began gloomily with rain getting heavier by the minute, hardly unexpected in a British April and yet I was poorly prepared thanks to my Pollyanna weather sense. By mid-morning it was dry enough to walk to Hastings Old Town whose fishing village roots are clear from the huddle of houses stretching up the cliffs. It’s very pretty, lots of independent shops and cafes. Sadly, we failed to track down Inspector Foyle‘s house but maybe next time.
One more walk around our local park on Saturday morning, where we spotted a turtle sunning itself, before a last coffee with M and R. An enjoyable, relaxing break with not one visit to anything related to 1066 and the famous battle.
And the DNF? For some reason I just couldn’t seem to get into Anna Bruno’s Ordinary Hazards which I started before we set off. It’s set over a single night in a small-town bar frequented by the recently divorced Emma. According to the blurb, a series of decisions will change her and her fellow drinkers’ lives forever, all of which sounds right up my street but every time I picked it up, I had trouble remembering what had come before so I left it behind in our Airbnb. With luck, someone else will enjoy it.
We hardly know Hastings. It’s quite a mixed experience isn’t it? And I don’t know that book. On your say-so, I probably never will!
We didn’t venture into the new town which I’m told is very different. I’m probably doing Ms Bruno down but her book just didn’t do it for me.
I tend to respect your judgment – at least if it saves me having to stand on tiptoes to put yet another book on the TBR tower!
Thank you, and I hope it doesn’t topple over!
Hmmmm …
You do very well spotting wildlife on your trips – didn’t you spot an otter in Scotland? How lovely to see a turtle.
There were actually two turtles to keep each other company, I’m pleased to say. Indeed we did. What an excellent memory you have!
My only knowledge of Hastings comes from watching Foyle! It does look pretty and the kind of place perfect for just mooching about.
My aunt introduced me to Foyle’s War which I loved. Good old undemanding Sunday night viewing, but quality!
They should really bring him out of retirement. I would rather watch him than a lot of the current series. No horrible violence for one thing!
Wouldn’t that be great? Absolutely agree about the violence. I had to give up Paris Police 1900 recently because of that. A shame as it was an interesting story.
Well, your two days sound lovely – but I agree that if a book isn’t sticking like that, it’s definitely best abandoned!!
Always the best policy, particularly as I didn’t have to carry it home!
Lovely photos and oh those paintings! So visceral, I love them! Shame about the book though it sounds like you didn’t lack for other distractions.
Thank you, and the paintings are amazing. Almost sculptural! I’ll choose better next time. Short stories often work for me on holiday.
My paternal grandmother was from Battle. I really must visit one day. And you can’t win them all with books. I hope you’re enjoying whatever you are reading now.
We passed through Battle on the train. Presumably that’s where they fought in 1066, or perhaps I’m being a bit too literal! Thanks – I’ve moved on to The Sweetness of Water which is very good, if sad.
That sounds like a lovely break, I’ve never been to St Leonard’s or Hastings but they sound just the sort of seaside towns I like. A DNF is always such a disappointment, I always resent the time I wasted on it.
I’d probably not have gone were it not for seeing family (which made up for the DNF) as it’s a bit of a trek cross country but I was pleasantly surprised.
I love these South Coast towns – so much rich history, although I tend to associate them with Dad’s Army rather than Inspector Foyle!
Ha! I can see why. I used to be dismissive of Inspector Foyle but grew to love him over lockdown.
Glad the trip turned out well, despite the rain. How lucky to spot a turtle. I’ve only ever seen/met pet ones (or may be it was a tortoise) but there were three at a friend’s home when we visited years ago. Sorry the book was disappointing.
Thank you! We had to look very hard to be sure what it was. I think it needed a more secure flat surface to sunbathe on.