Aiming to break up the winter gloom, H and I took ourselves off to London for a few days planning to catch up with a few friends and family plus take in a bit of culture.
We arrived on a gloriously sunny afternoon and decided to visit the National Portrait Gallery which underwent
a substantial renovation a couple of years ago. Hoping to be delighted and impressed, we were both a bit disappointed. Somehow, the collection seemed to lack cohesion, and the signage wasn’t great. I did revisit the painting of Sir Henry Unton, not so much a portrait as the story of his life. I’ve never seen anything quite like it.
We’d based ourselves in Southwark not far from the site of the Tabard where pilgrims gathered before setting off to Canterbury. It’s a fascinating area to wander around which we did the following morning before heading to the Fashion and Textile Museum in nearby Bermondsey to see Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London. Highly recommended for those wishing to revisit their youth or just admire the surprisingly good tailoring. I’ve been impressed by all the shows I’ve seen at this museum. A small space inventively used, complemented by interesting well-presented context for the exhibits. Perhaps the National Portrait Gallery should pay it a visit.
Waking up to a lovely clear morning after supper with friends the previous evening, we were both feeling chipper and decided to walk to the V&A via St 
James’s Park to say hello to the pelicans. We used our Art Fund cards to get us in to see The Great Mughals, a fabulous exhibition of miniatures and artefacts of which my favourite was an exquisite jade wine cup. As ever, the route to the exit took us through a random bit of the permanent collection stuffed with eye-catching objects. One of London’s most interesting museums, always worth a visit and free if you avoid exhibitions.
Our last morning was spent walking the riverside path just beyond Tower Bridge feeling lucky to have had such great 
weather, so different from last year’s incessant rain. Such an enjoyable break rounded off by lunch with my aunt who’s always brilliant company.
And the book? London is the location for Elizabeth McCracken’s novella, The Hero of This Book, which follows her recently bereaved narrator around the city she visited with her beloved mother several times. It was written after McCracken lost her own mother but, as our narrator insists is neither a memoir nor a piece of autofiction because what even is that. A poignant book full of memories and love.
Back to books on Friday…
I’m glad you had good weather; it makes such a difference. I still haven’t worked out the revamped NPG. I used to go there regularly and now feel thoroughly lost!
It certainly does. I was so disappointed with the NPG. It’s become like Tate Modern and the Barbican – always allow at least ten minutes to get lost!
Doesn’t the weather make all the difference? Looks like you had a lovely trip.
We were so lucky with the weather, I love walking in London which is set of beautifully by sunshine.
Sounds all rather idyllic! I don’t know London at all but I hope to spend there some day. Glad you had a wonderful break Susan x
Thanks, Mairéad. It was great to get away for a few days x
Oh my word, good weather AND you weren’t sick at all?!
And in London of all places, very happy for you, Susan!
Thank you! Both of us were well and truly vaccinated this time around. It had been some time when we went to the Hague.
I worked in Southwark for 13 years… used to love exploring it on my lunch time ramblings. Sounds like you had a great trip
We did! I did the same when working in the City. You can learn a great deal by just looking up.
What beautiful days you had for it. The V&A is indeed wonderful (and even their exhibitions tend to have decent discounted rates for students and seniors). Shame about the new NPG, which used to be one of my central London havens—I haven’t been back since the revamp, so it’s disappointing to hear it’s more confusing than before. Southwark is really wonderful though. One of my favourite parts of the city.
We were so lucky and well prepared with clothes to wrap up in. It’s so easy to stumble on something exquisite in the V&A isn’t it. I miss the old NPG!
What a lovely couple of days, I love tramping around London. I’m sorry you didn’t like the NPG, I think the revamp is terrific – just what it needed! I agree with you about Southwark and the design museum although I haven’t seen this exhibition yet, you’ve chivvied me along, thank you!
I’m pleased the NPG works for you. I may have to have another try if only to visit Sir Henry Unton again. The Great Mughals is fabulous. I hope you get a chance to see it.
Like Jane, I’m also a fan of the revamped NPG, partly because they’ve made a conscious effort to include many more female artists than before. Plus, the rehang seems much more diverse and vibrant than the previous selection of portraits, which can only be a good thing. It’s become one of my favourite places to go if I’ve got a spare hour to fill in central London, so I’m sorry it didn’t quite work for you!
The Great Mughals sounds excellent, though. Another friend has already recommended it to me, so I’ll try to catch it before it closes.
The Great Mughals was remarkable, Jacqui. A large exhibition so you’ll probably want to set aside a few hours or more to take it in.
I think we’ll have to agree to disagree about the NPG but I’m glad to hear you enjoy it so much!
Good exhibition work, the 80s fashions sound fab! I’ve also not been to the NPG since it was redone and I’m sorry to hear it’s not been done well.
You neve know, it might work for you! I love the Fashion and Textile Museum. They put so much thought into their exhibitions. Lots of interesting context and there are always people wandering around reliving their glory days!
I agree with you about the National Portrait Gallery after the revamp – I had such high hopes (and there are a lot of new portraits), but it doesn’t have that clear chronology to it anymore.
Exactly that! Such a shame. A lot of money has been spent on it too.
Completely agree about the NPG – so many people warned me but I still harboured high hopes. So disappointing. Some friends and I are going to the Tate Britain 80s exhibition in February – I’m going to suggest we couple it with the Fashion and Textile Museum too now!
Definitely disappointing. I was so looking forward to seeing the changes. That would be the perfect pairing! I hope you have a brilliant time.
How extraordinary! As I was reading your post, I thought that The Hero of This Book might make a suitable reading companion, And it did.
It was odd to read her account of walking where we’d been that day which happened a couple of time.
Yes. That kind of thing messes with your mind.
You certainly had lovely weather for it. You’re always good at seeking out the best museums and exhibits wherever you go! I tend to get museum-ed out after an hour or so at one. I’m so glad you enjoyed the McCracken, a very special book for me.
I still can’t quite believe how lucky we were with the weather, and I have the Art Fund to thank for guiding me to some great museums. I remember your review of the McCracken and how it struck a chord with you. All our walks included stretches she also walks in the book. It fit so well.
I noticed that Great Mughals exhibition and am delighted that you enjoyed it – must somehow get there as I’d love to see it. What a great time you had in London! I often mean to visit lots of places but then get overwhelmed with the city and the time it takes to travel anywhere (I know, I’m a wimp!) so I’m very impressed that you managed to fit so much in. The book sounds great, too, and a perfect accompaniment.
Ironically, I popped the McCracken in my bag at the last minute. I’d highly recommend The Great Mughals if you can manage to see it (and you’re not a wimp at all!). I came home exhausted but much more awake if you know what I mean.
The McCracken is a perfect book for London reading – I love to match my book to a holiday too when I can. Did you follow the narrator’s example of walking through other people’s extended selfie taking scenes?
Living in Bath, which is a tourist magnet, I do that most days! It was particularly fitting as several of our routes took us along ones she’d taken.
Oh my gosh. Would give my right arm to see that Outlaws exhibition!
It’d be right up your alley!
After all the money spent on that refurb what a shame to find NPG so confusing. I wonder sometimes whether the curators are so intent on drawing out themes that they forget about the visitor’s experience and whether the arrangement works for them
That could well be it. I’m sure I’ll return but less enthusiastically.
What a lovely time away you’ve had!
McCracken has written so tenderly of loss.
We were so lucky! It’s a beautiful book, isn’t it.
I’ve been to one thing at the Fashion and Textile Museum (I forget what) and was really impressed.
I discovered it through the Art Fund. A small space but they use it inventively with interesting exhibitions.