H and I had been to Stockholm years ago arriving in the middle of an August heatwave so humid we didn’t do nearly as much as we’d planned. Consequently, my memories of the city were hazy, although the image of a young woman taking a piglet for a walk has stayed with me. We thought we’d try a winter break to see what we’d missed.
Our first morning was spent wandering around Gamla Stan, the pretty cobbled old town, full of buildings rendered in various shades of ochre no doubt to offer an illusion of warmth in winter although, for us, it was only a few degrees colder than home.
The afternoon was given over to the magnificent Vasa Museum, home to a fearsome warship so poorly designed it sank just a thousand metres into its 1628 maiden voyage, remaining submerged until salvage began in 1961. The ship is quite astonishing, huge and impressively decorated even stripped of the vivid colours it would have originally been painted. An amazing piece of restoration, aided by the mud that had preserved the ship and its contents, which is still continuing today.
It was such a gorgeous day on Thursday that we spent much of it outdoors, walking through Djurgarden, a lovely, forested island, alongside lots of locals enjoying beautiful views in bright winter sunshine.
Visiting the Swedish History Museum took up much of Friday. Two of its three floors are devoted to the Vikings, including an extensive display of exquisite gold jewellery. They were largely an agrarian society who did not wear horned helmets, apparently, nor spend all their time marauding and pillaging, although they did build an extensive empire stretching as far as what is now Iran. The third floor offered a whistle-stop tour of the rest of Swedish History including a gold gown made for Queen Margareta of Denmark which turned out to be a copy of the fourteenth-century original but still gorgeous.
I know very little about Scandinavian art so was keen to visit the Modern Art Museum housed in an airy, spacious gallery not far from where we were staying. The most interesting exhibits for me were two views from the same window, one by modernist painter Sigrid Hjertén, the other by her husband Isaac Grünewald. Hard to imagine how their work could have been more different. I’ll leave it up to you to guess which is which.
On our last afternoon we visited the Hallwyl Museum whose bonkers vestibule we’d spotted one evening. Wilhelmina von Hallwyl used her fortune to accumulate a large collection of art and artifacts housing them in a town house with rooms decorated in a variety of historical styles, including one with a startling number of ornate weapons on display plus two suits of armour. It reminded me of the Russell-Coates museum we’d visited in Bournemouth although not quite so extravagantly eccentric.
Just time for a quick walk around lovely Gamla Stan after Sunday breakfast before heading home. We’d packed so much more into our four winter days than we managed on our first Stockholm visit. It’s a beautiful city with lots of watery views to admire. Our only disappointment was the lack of snow.
And the book? Rachel Connolly’s Lazy City is set in Belfast where Erin has returned after her best friend died in London, to be faced with her mother’s fury, a relationship which really should have run its course but she can’t seem to abandon and the possibility of another with an American new to the city with his own past to trouble him. It’s a moving portrait of a young woman lost in grief, probably best read with more attention than I had to give.
You’ve definitely tempted me with this pen (and photo!) portrait of Stockholm. So far, Denmark is the only Scandinavian country I’ve visited, and I loved so much that we explored there. Lazy City also sounds tempting.
It’s a really lovely city, and a great one to visit in winter. Lots of museums and easy to get around. We were also pleasantly surprised to find it was no more expensive than London.
What a lovely city break. I’ve never been to Scandinavia and I’d love to go. Did you find it expensive? Were you not tempted to find a Swedish novel to take along instead? 🙂
I didn’t have one handy! It’s no more expensive than London apart from alcohol but we tend only to have a glass of wine. I’ve visited Copenhagen, Helsinki and toured southern Sweden, all recommended.
I still rave about the Vasa Museum, although it must be fifteen years or more since I visited. The design by Dutch ship-builders was good, then the King ordered an extra deck be installed, rendering the ship top-heavy and unstable. On launching, it promptly toppled over and sank, and was lost for hundreds of years. One man`s persistence finally resolved it`s location.
Some of the `Girl with the Dragon Tattoo` escapades were set un Gamla Stan
It’s a fine museum, isn’t it. I particularly liked their presentation; no distracting videos and soundtracks in the background. The ship must have been a magnificent sight dressed in its vivid colours but the king’s intervention was a tragic mistake.
My parents went to Sweden years ago and loved it – this is unusual because they never were great travellers. But my dad worked for a printing firm and it was the paper supplier who invited them. Anyway, they loved it and thought it was a beautiful place. It’s fascinating to see your photos and hear about your trip!
Thank you! I’m glad your parents took up the invitation. I’ve visited Sweden three times and enjoyed each one despite the miserable humidity of our August Stockholm trip.
I love Scandinavia. Love the architecture, fashion style, food and drink. Been to Copenhagen, Helsinki (which I love), Gothenburg. But not yet to Stockholm, which I want to see and the islands around it. Tove Jannsson’s The Summer Book would have been a great accompaniment to your trip. Captures Swedish rural life very well.
Rachel Connolly is quite popular in Ireland now, although I haven’t got around to reading her books yet. Thanks for great review and photos. I am off to Malaga soon, and will be packing in a lot of culture in a short few days too. Lots of literary associations there that I was not aware of until I did my research.
Me, too. The only Scandinavian country I’ve yet to visit is Norway. Somehow, I feel at home there. Have fun in Malaga! I’m sure you’ll be warmer than we were.
Sounds like a great trip. I’ve never been to Scandinavia and would dearly love to (my family heritage is Norwegian).
And I’ll be looking up Lazy City – a grief story set in Belfast? Perfect!
Sounds like a wonderful place to visit – thanks for taking us along! I’m sorely tempted to guess the one with the houses was painted by the woman and the one with the ship by the man, but I fear that just shows I’m irredeemably stuck in sexist stereotypes. I’m hoping you’ll tell me I’m wrong!
Looks and sounds a wonderful visit, Susan! That ship and the viking exhibits are particularly appealing to me–if ever I get to Stockholm, those I’m certainly going to look up. Also the paintings as I know nothing of Swedish art.
Sounds like a lovely trip! I’ve only been to Stockholm on a work trip, and unfortunately there was no time to look around the city. Gamla Stan looks particularly interesting.
I went for a long weekend in Stockholm with my son a couple of years back and we loved it. Very compact and walkable, great coffee (and cinnamon buns) in Gamla Stan, the Vasa museum was brilliant, and we snuck in a cheeky IKEA hotdog for lunch one day. Would definitely go back.
Definitely very walkable which is one of the things I look for in a city break. A great way to spot things you wouldn’t notice otherwise. The Vasa Museum is extraordinary, isn’t it.
You’ve definitely tempted me with this pen (and photo!) portrait of Stockholm. So far, Denmark is the only Scandinavian country I’ve visited, and I loved so much that we explored there. Lazy City also sounds tempting.
It’s a really lovely city, and a great one to visit in winter. Lots of museums and easy to get around. We were also pleasantly surprised to find it was no more expensive than London.
Hint squirrelled away for future reference! Thanks.
What a lovely city break. I’ve never been to Scandinavia and I’d love to go. Did you find it expensive? Were you not tempted to find a Swedish novel to take along instead? 🙂
I didn’t have one handy! It’s no more expensive than London apart from alcohol but we tend only to have a glass of wine. I’ve visited Copenhagen, Helsinki and toured southern Sweden, all recommended.
Looks like a fabulous trip! Very jealous!
It was! A winter treat to get us through until spring.
I still rave about the Vasa Museum, although it must be fifteen years or more since I visited. The design by Dutch ship-builders was good, then the King ordered an extra deck be installed, rendering the ship top-heavy and unstable. On launching, it promptly toppled over and sank, and was lost for hundreds of years. One man`s persistence finally resolved it`s location.
Some of the `Girl with the Dragon Tattoo` escapades were set un Gamla Stan
It’s a fine museum, isn’t it. I particularly liked their presentation; no distracting videos and soundtracks in the background. The ship must have been a magnificent sight dressed in its vivid colours but the king’s intervention was a tragic mistake.
My parents went to Sweden years ago and loved it – this is unusual because they never were great travellers. But my dad worked for a printing firm and it was the paper supplier who invited them. Anyway, they loved it and thought it was a beautiful place. It’s fascinating to see your photos and hear about your trip!
Thank you! I’m glad your parents took up the invitation. I’ve visited Sweden three times and enjoyed each one despite the miserable humidity of our August Stockholm trip.
I love Scandinavia. Love the architecture, fashion style, food and drink. Been to Copenhagen, Helsinki (which I love), Gothenburg. But not yet to Stockholm, which I want to see and the islands around it. Tove Jannsson’s The Summer Book would have been a great accompaniment to your trip. Captures Swedish rural life very well.
Rachel Connolly is quite popular in Ireland now, although I haven’t got around to reading her books yet. Thanks for great review and photos. I am off to Malaga soon, and will be packing in a lot of culture in a short few days too. Lots of literary associations there that I was not aware of until I did my research.
Me, too. The only Scandinavian country I’ve yet to visit is Norway. Somehow, I feel at home there. Have fun in Malaga! I’m sure you’ll be warmer than we were.
This looks like a fun and enriching place to visit!
It’s lovely! Highly recommend it.
How lovely! Thanks for sharing. Lazy City sounds a good read too.
My pleasure. Such an enjoyable break!
Sounds like a great trip. I’ve never been to Scandinavia and would dearly love to (my family heritage is Norwegian).
And I’ll be looking up Lazy City – a grief story set in Belfast? Perfect!
Norway’s the only Scandinavian country I’ve not visited which I’ll have to put right! I think Lazy City would suit you.
Just had a closer look at Lazy City – I read a sample after you flagging it in a new release post last year, and gave it a ‘yes’ vote 🙂
What a great trip.
It was a delight!
Sounds like a wonderful place to visit – thanks for taking us along! I’m sorely tempted to guess the one with the houses was painted by the woman and the one with the ship by the man, but I fear that just shows I’m irredeemably stuck in sexist stereotypes. I’m hoping you’ll tell me I’m wrong!
You’re welcome, and you’re also spot on in your guess!
Looks and sounds a wonderful visit, Susan! That ship and the viking exhibits are particularly appealing to me–if ever I get to Stockholm, those I’m certainly going to look up. Also the paintings as I know nothing of Swedish art.
It was such a treat! The Vasa Museum’s one of the best I’ve visited in some time.
Sounds like a lovely trip! I’ve only been to Stockholm on a work trip, and unfortunately there was no time to look around the city. Gamla Stan looks particularly interesting.
It was! Gamla Stan is very pretty and not suitable for cars which makes ambling around it a pleasure.
I went for a long weekend in Stockholm with my son a couple of years back and we loved it. Very compact and walkable, great coffee (and cinnamon buns) in Gamla Stan, the Vasa museum was brilliant, and we snuck in a cheeky IKEA hotdog for lunch one day. Would definitely go back.
Definitely very walkable which is one of the things I look for in a city break. A great way to spot things you wouldn’t notice otherwise. The Vasa Museum is extraordinary, isn’t it.