H and I were so taken with Chichester, our pitstop our way to East Sussex last year, that we decided to take a short break there before winter closes in on us, booking our first Airbnb which turned out to be very comfortable.
Were it not for its cathedral, you might call Chichester a small market town but it’s actually a city with a splendid market cross at its heart. We were lucky with the weather, spending our first morning walking the city walls in the sun before picking up some
treats for lunch at the farmers’ market.
The main cultural draw for me was Pallant House but Chichester also has an outstanding local history museum built around the city’s Roman excavations to display the remains of the bathhouse. Novium opened in 2012 but it’s a good old-fashioned museum – no videos with distracting soundtracks but lots to entertain children. There was a brilliant little exhibition showcasing Chichester’s many cultural 
contributions, from music to literature to the visual arts. We stumbled on some of the street art mentioned on our way home.
We set out on Saturday morning to visit the cathedral, beautiful in its own right but I was keen to see Chagall’s stained-glass window commissioned by Walter Hussey, the cathedral’s dean for over two decades and responsible for acquiring many of its art works including a striking
altar tapestry by John Piper plus Graham Sutherland‘s ‘Noli Me Tangere’, very controversial when it was first hung, and some striking candlesticks designed by Jonathan Clarke either side of the shrine to St Richard, the cathedral’s founder. The shrine is usually set off by the Benker-Schirmer tapestry illustrating the miracles associated with the saint but, sadly, the moths got at it during Covid and it’s being restored. Thankfully the damage was spotted before the piece was ruined. A quicky round of 
the lovely cathedral gardens and it was time for lunch.
The cathedral acted as an appetiser for Pallant House which Hussey had helped set up, bequeathing the gallery his impressive art collection. It’s a rather lovely building, smartly extended, whose old entrance gateposts are topped off with what were supposed to be two ostriches although they look more like dodos to me. We’d seen
much of the collection last year, but I’d forgotten about the cabinet of ceramics which includes two elegantly beautiful Lucie Ries. I was also taken with a particularly lovely Ivon Hitchens and a piece by Wycliffe Stutchbury who works with found timber. Made up of small pieces of overlapping wood, it’s very beautiful, full of subtly nuanced colour, impossible to capture on a phone camera.
Fully cultured up, we left on Sunday morning arriving home in time to grab lunch and shelter from the 
rain at our local cafe. Chichester is such an interesting town, far enough away from London to have a life of its own with lots of history and art to explore. We thoroughly enjoyed our break. Two days was just right.
And the book? I’d started Hilary Mantel’s Bring Up the Bodies before we left but, unsurprisingly, didn’t finish it while we were away. Sharp, witty and eloquent, her writing is superb. Such a loss to literature.
No more travelling for a while for us, probably until the spring, but you never know. Back to books on Wednesday.
You’ve whetted my appetite. I’ve only had a flying visit to Chichester many years ago. A return in required!
There’s so much to see, particularly if you like art. The town had a friendly, lively feel about it, too.
This is great. Thank you. I’ve been talking about going to Chichester – particularly to go to Pallant House – and this inspires me to get organised.
Delighted to hear that! Pallant House has a very nice cafe, too, although best to book.
We visited in the summer and enjoyed the art works displayed in the cathedral, and the gardens.
Our first visit was last summer when we were struck by how lovely the gardens were, too. Lots to see for quite a small town.
Not somewhere I’ve ever been, but it looks lovely!
It was a brilliant short break, Cathy. Really enjoyed it.
Oh, I love Chichester! Very near my grandparents so I spent a good amount of time there as a young’un and I’ve always had a soft spot for it. The cathedral gardens are particularly wonderful for picnics!
I loved the way the gardens were open to the city! They were a pleasure to visit even in late November. A lovely place to spend time as a child.
Looks gorgeous – very envious!
It was such a treat, and we were so lucky with the weather.
Thank you for the introduction to Chichester. I’ve never been but it’s now on our list of places to visit.
You’re welcome! So pleased to hear that. I hope you enjoy your visit as much as we did ours.
I haven’t been to Chichester for years and not to Pallant House at all, I must go!
Pallant House is fabulous. Great cafe, too!
Always enjoy your travel posts.
Thank you, Helen!
What a lovely trip – I have been to Chichester for the Iris Murdoch Society Conference but only went on a walking tour around it and not in. I grew up near a small church with Chagall windows, slightly oddly, All Saints’ Church in Tudeley!
I looked up Tudely and was amazed to see that all its windows are Chagalls! They look beautiful, too. The village must have lots of visitors.
I love that Chagall window. I’ve been to Chichester once, briefly and many years ago now, for an interview at the central library. Glad the Airbnb worked out well for you and you enjoyed your mini-break. That’s my favourite Mantel book (not that I’ve read anything close to all of them!).
It’s gorgeous, isn’t it, and thank you. I can’t read the Mantel without hearing Mark Rylance’s voice! He was so good as Cromwell in the BBC’s Wolf Hall.
Chichester looks lovely, Susan. I’d really like to explore various place in the UK in the future (rather than going abroad), so I’ll definitely keep it in mind. That Chagall stained-glass window would be work the trip alone!
I’m sure you’d love it, Jacqui. Lots of art to explore, and it’s a pretty town with a nice feel to it.
Looks like the perfect place for a short break, and I’m glad you got some decent weather! I often find these small towns more interesting than the large cities, and considerably more relaxing.
Yes, I’d agree with that, and you’re right about the weather. Absolute downpour yesterday which made me very glad we came home on Sunday!
What a lovely sounding break. I don’t think I have ever been to Chichester. Your photos make it look worth visiting. It is years since I read the first two books in the Hilary Mantel trilogy, my mum recently started the third one. I am slightly put off by the size and how long it is since I read Bring Up the Bodies.
It was so enjoyable! Lots to see and a very friendly town. It’s a year since I read Wolf Hall but it all came back to me once I started this one. Hope your mum’s enjoying the last instalment.
Hi Did you see the Arundel tomb in the cathedral? Worth a look, as referenced in Larkin’s poem of the same name! Beautiful city
It is! We were so taken up with the art that we missed that. A good reason to go back.
Definitely! The little dog……..
I’m very fond of Chichester – glad you had such a lovely time!
It’s a lovely town and the art is the icing on the cake.